I recently got two Jim Kervin books, the Sharon Peters one and the Jim Smircich one, both have given me new insights. Jim Smircich has made me think and understand a little more about the different working temps of the glass and how to achieve different shapes, and Sharon has got me wanting to do more animal beads.

Here are a couple of pictures of some of the latest - my little rat has since lost his tail - darn! I thought I'd been really careful about heating it up well, but something went wrong somewhere -- oh for a kiln!

I'll be getting more beads annealed very soon, which means there will be a huge new assortment that will go up for sale!

There are different types of glass used in beadmaking. Each glass has a different melting temperature. The most commonly used is soft/soda glass bought under the name of Moretti. Other brands are available too, but Moretti is the one with the most colours and most common.



Hard/Pyrex/Borocilicate glass has a higher melting temperature and requires special eye protection for artists who work with it. The rewards are many including the colours that are visible within the glass.


The difference between the two types has led many users of Moretti to try and emulate the look of borocilicate glass. To acheive the beauty without the extra equipment and knowledge.


This is what I was attempting with the beads below. When Iris Gold is combined with Straw Yellow, very pretty things happen! These beads are the result, I layed a twisty over different colours of transparent Moretti and then encased the beads to give the full effect.


I had several crack on me sadly, I was trying to figure out why, and it turns out that the Iris Gold is a different type of Glass to Moretti. It has a different COE (Co-efficient Of Expansion), and this is what the problem is -- too bad because they are quite beautiful when the light shines through them. There's an unwritten law that says don't add more than 5% of a different COE to your bead, so perhaps if the twisty was used very sparingly the beads wouldn't be so prone to cracking. Who'd-a-thunk making pretty things required all this Science????

Med blue transparent (I think) base

Dark amber base

Red transparent base
Uranium Yellow base

So, I'm not sure if I'll pursue these beads - the iris gold is quite expensive - too expensive to go into the cracked bead pot anyway! I did learn good things though and I'm starting to understand how to encase a bead. Previous attempts have been pretty futile, but I'm starting to get a feel for how the hot glass goes onto the bead to give a nice clear layer without disturbing the decorated layer below.

The glass is unwrapped, sorted and labelled and the fun has begun! I'm experimenting with reactions between the different colours or 'families' of glass. Some pretty cool things can happen if you know what you are doing - and sometimes even if you don't.



Here's the latest!

These use a twisty made of edp and turquoise laid down next to an opal yellow stripe on the bead, the twisty smooshes into the yellow and all kinds of cool colours happen. Then I tried encasing same twisty - a very different looking thing happens.

Bead Soup anyone? There are a couple in here with copper in them, my favourites are the big blue hollow and a surprising reaction I got with the transparent uranium yellow bead (see close up 'Today's Pick' in the right hand column).

Introducing South Sea Mary and Porcinea Ham (don't you think she looks a little pig-like??)

.. note the nifty knew tip for taking photos - regular table salt acts as a great background, it's easy to position beads at the angle you want -- Just make sure they're dry before you plop them in there!!

I finally spent my contest winnings! I had a big order of glass arrive on Friday, along with some silver leaf and dichroic glass. Lots of colours I haven't tried before, I'm excited to use it and get new combos and reactions.

Isn't it PRETTY! - You can click on this one for a bigger image.


I've been working with dark ivory and seeing what reactions happen with different colours. The little 'blue and white' bead came about from laying a twisty of copper green, intense black and white on an ivory base bead. The blue must be from the copper, it's very pretty, I'm calling it IO

These are some others, playing about with dots and stringers. I found the really sweet spot in the flame on Friday where I could lay the stringer just how I wanted it.

I've been busy making beads and wigwags for a sale in August. I want to have something that is affordable to everyone and am trying to think of the best way to string single beads.

Twisties and wigwag twisties.


These are the beads I've made using the twisties -

I have to say having a bulk tank is wonderful - what a difference to the little cannisters. I have no idea how much I'm using or how soon it's going to run out, but I do like it. One thing I've noticed is that my moretti black is getting some smearing on the surface, not sure if that is due to the excess heat or what. I'd like to try some Vetrofond next as I hear it's better. In the meantime I think I'll try etching some of the black beads, I'm sure they'll look quite nice.

Today I had a breakthrough! I read a tutorial on how to make twisties that helped me no end. Until now my twisties have been about four or five inches long, I can now make them 12+ inches in length! And also I've been trying the wigwag twisties that seem very popular at the minute, here's a picture of a regular and a wigwag. I think if you click on the picture you'll see a bigger version.

Busy work week so not much time at the torch so far. I have been trying some Russian doll beads without much success, certainly not good enough to post. I like the idea but need to work on the process and figure a good way of doing their faces because they are pretty tiny. Elly in Etobicoke shipped me some of her Satake glass - thank you Elly!! I tried some of the pink, I love the way it melts, but price would be a big consideration as it's quite a bit more expensive than the Moretti I am using. Maybe when I get really good I can consider making some with Satake.